Copyright
2006 author and Reptiles Australia
(See full article Vol 2 no 2).
Keeping and Breeding Black Soil Dragons –
Pogona
henrylawsoni
Bob
Pickworth
Introduction
Dragons
are amongst the easiest of reptiles to keep and breed.
Most will tolerate a wide range of temperatures and
conditions and will eat a wide variety of foods. They
are not shy, become tame quickly and are easy to
handle.
Due to their small size, cheeky disposition and ease of
maintenance, the black soil dragon or “pygmy
dragon” is amongst the easiest of all the dragons
to maintain and they are not difficult to breed. In my
opinion they rank with the blue tongue, bearded dragon
and pink tongue as an ideal “first-time” or
beginners lizard.
The following article will outline the basics of
keeping, breeding and raising these appealing little
lizards.
Housing.
In order to keep the black soil dragon fit &
healthy it is important to understand something of
their natural habitat. These are an inland species and
as such, are subject to hot dry summer conditions, yet
sub zero winter temperatures. They are found in a wide
variety of soil types, but tend to prefer a sandy loam
that they can burrow into to survive both the extremes
of summer and winter conditions.
Knowing this, a sandy substrate that drains easily and
doesn’t collect pools of water is best, (I keep
mine on coarse sand poached from the kids sandpit).
Plastic tubs and glass aquariums are great raising
containers as they are quick and easy to clean and the
sand does not clog door slides or hinges. Avoid using
pelletised newspaper, “cat litter” or other
substrates that collect water and increase humidity
levels (remember these are an inland species from arid
habitats). Also avoid newspaper as it does not allow
the lizards to dig or get a firm grip for their feet. I
have seen dragons kept on newspaper from hatchlings
that have malformed feet. This is just as likely a
calcium or U.V. (Ultra Violet) deficiency, but could
also result from the slippery surface not allowing the
lizards an adequate grip. I know that this is a cause
of malformed feet in some puppies, so could just as
easily occur in lizards.
Like most dragons P.
henrylawsoni
have
a high requirement for sunlight, so if housed indoors,
they need to be provided with several hours of natural
sunlight or an alternative U.V. source such as a
“sun lamp”. It is important to remember to
provide adequate ventilation as with a dual heat source
and basking spot, the temperature in the tank will
increase rapidly. A cheap ventilator is a stainless
steel drain plug from hardware stores as well as a
pegboard top. Make sure there is adequate sealing to
the lid, lest insects escape and you incur the wrath of
the head of the household.
Heating / Lighting.
Black soil dragons are not a secretive lizard, quite
the reverse, they enjoy crawling up onto rocks to
communicate with each other and basking under a lamp or
in the sun, so a basking spot under a spot lamp is
essential. I place several sandstone rocks at one end
of the enclosure, these are about 250mm from an
overhead spot lamp (40 – 60w). The rocks act as a
heat sink and warm the lizard from underneath as well
as on top. This “basking spot” should be
hot – up to 450
C
and is on a time switch for 12 –14 hours a day.
It is important that a thermal gradient exists of at
least 150C,
however the enclosure should not exceed
350
C.
During winter, reduce the timer switch to provide 8
hours of sun a day and reduce the bulb strength to
about 20w.
A heat mat should also be placed underneath the
enclosure, preferably on a Styrofoam mat to insulate
the surface of the table from heat damage and also
direct all the heat to the tank. The heat mat should
cover about 75% of the length of the floor, leaving a
small strip at one end that receives no heat. At this
end of the enclosure a “hide box” for the
lizards to escape the heat and light is provided, This
should be 1/2
filled
with a 50% sand 50% peat mixture to allow the lizards
to bury themselves, which they do from time to time.
Keep this mixture moist, but not damp. During summer
this can also double as a nesting site.
FEEDING
They have an omnivorous diet and so require vegetable
matter as well as protein in the form of insects.
Dragon pellets are also readily accepted if they are
trained to them. This may take a few weeks, so if you
are purchasing a lizard from the breeder make sure you
get a feed sheet or at least ask what they are being
fed. If you change the diet, do so gradually as it is
not uncommon for lizards to “go off their
food”. The diet should include small insects that
will fit in the lizards mouth. These can include
crickets, wood roaches, mealworms, beetles,
caterpillars, moths, grasshoppers etc. It is important
to offer variety and to also occasionally dust the food
with calcium or vitamin powder. It is also helpful to
“gut load” the insects several hours before
feeding. To do this simlply put proprietary brand
“gut load” (Pisces industries sell this
through most pet stores) or high quality tropical fish
food flakes in a container with the insects. The
insects will eat this and so transfer the vitamins and
minerals in their gut to the lizards.
It is also important to offer chopped or grated
vegetables. Just about any vegetables are fine
including carrot, squash, pumpkin, lettuce, spinach,
broccoli, chickweed, grass clippings, yellow flowers
such as dandelion, zucchini and pumpkin flowers, mine
also enjoy nasturtium leaves and flowers. Make sure you
offer variety in both the insects and vegetables
