Copyright
2006 author and Reptiles Australia
(Full article available in Vol 2 no
3).
CAPTIVE BREEDING AND MAINTENANCE OF
ROUGH KNOB-TAILED GECKOS
Nephrurus
amyae
and
N. asper.
.
Robert Porter
CAPTIVE
HUSBANDRY
As a reflection of the arid and severe characteristics
of their natural habitat, both N.
amyae and
N.
asper are
tough and hardy captives. As long as temperature
extremes, especially at the upper end, are avoided,
there is no reason to believe these geckos would not
happily survive in excess of 20 years in captivity.
Although normally solitary in the wild, they appear to
be relatively tolerant of other specimens housed in the
same enclosure, even two males may be maintained
together with or without females in some cases.
Ideally, a group of a pair or three geckos (one male
and two females) would be housed together. These may be
successfully kept in one enclosure all year around,
with breeding occurring regularly every year. However,
some keepers believe they achieve better breeding
success if sexes are kept apart for most of the year
and simply introduced for breeding at the appropriate
time.
An enclosure measuring around 60 x 30 x 30cm will
adequately house a pair of N.
asper, a
little larger for a trio. For N.
amyae a
bigger enclosure is required, say 75 x 30 x 30 for a
pair 100 x 30 x 30 for a trio. All knob-tails are
terrestrial lizards so no vertical height is required.
In fact, if a cage with relatively smooth sides is
used, e.g. a glass aquarium, no lid is required if the
sides are over about 20cm as their robust built rather
inhibits any agile movements such as jumping.
Good ventilation is essential. Most of the top of the
enclosure should either be open or covered with mesh to
permit efficient air circulation. Ideally, this would
be combined with some mesh vents around the enclosure
sides nearer the base. This will provide an excellent
airflow, the warmer air leaving through the top being
replaced by cooler fresh air entering through the vents
at the bottom.
Fine sand, such as red desert, beach or
plasterer’s sand make ideal substrates. They are
cheap, readily available and easy to keep clean. A
layer of approximately 4cm is provided for rough
knob-tails. They are not avid burrowers (unlike the
smooth species) as long as other shelter is provided.
Some keepers maintain their rough knob-tails on a paper
substrate quite successfully (Wagner & Lazik, 1996)
and this is certainly better for hygiene purposes.
However, I prefer a more natural cage covering and this
also reduces cage maintenance. Once a week any
droppings are removed from the sand surface, a task
taking about a minute for each enclosure. Once every
2–3 months the substrate is totally replaced.
Other furnishings include a glass water dish
approximately 3cm in diameter and 2cm deep and two or
three up-turned flower pot saucers of appropriate size
with an entry hole cut in one side. A small amount of
water is poured onto the sand on one side of one of the
pot saucers once per week. This provides a moist, humid
refuge if required by the animals. Sufficient water is
added so that the sand almost dries out within the next
4-5 days.
As well as a low wattage heat pad underneath one end of
the enclosure, a 25 or 40 watt incandescent light bulb
is also provided at the same end. The combination of
these two will produce a heat gradient ranging from
32–33C at the hottest point, down to mid to low
20’s at the cooler end. In winter temperatures
can be safely lowered a further 10–12C and this
cool period is important to ensure successful
reproduction the following spring. Although ultraviolet
light is probably not essential to these animals, a
Reptisun 5.0 tube, controlled by a timer, is positioned
30cm above the substrate surface. This provides a
strong, natural photoperiod, which is adjusted
seasonally, as well as offering potentially beneficial
ultraviolet light. The lizards are occasionally seen
active during the day, especially N.
amyae.
Feeding
Knob-tails are not fussy eaters. Almost any suitably
sized insect is a potential food item. My animals are
maintained totally on a diet of cricket, gut-loaded
with rodent pellets and fresh vegetables. Cockroaches,
grasshoppers, mealworms, pink mice and even other small
lizards would all be readily accepted. Feeding for
adults takes place 2–3 times per week during the
warm months, once a month during cooler times.
